EVOLUTION VAPORIZER MANUAL FOR 2010
*How
this vaporizer works: physically*
Vaporizers are composed of three parts: an air heater, a chamber
containing material to be vaporized, and a hose, which transports vapor away
from the heat source.
The heater consists of wire coiled within the passages of
a ceramic extrusion, which is then encased in a stainless steel tube. Like most
household space heaters, the coils give off heat as electricity passes through them.
This heat is absorbed by the ceramic extrusion and the stainless steal tube containing
it. The heating element stores the
heat and releases it each time cold air is drawn through the vaporizer.
The newly heated air moves to the vaporization chamber, and
is transferred to the vaporizable material. Whenever heat energy moves from one
object to another, there is some loss of energy—accordingly, the temperature
setting must be 20 to 40 degrees above the boiling point of the substance you are
trying to vaporize. Lighter constituents will vaporize at 150-250 whereas
heavier oils may not vaporize until they reach 250-380 degrees. This means that you may have to set
your vaporizer as high as 420 to 430 degrees to properly vaporize.
*The shorter the tube, the better*
After leaving the heating chamber, the vapor is drawn
away from the heat source through a tube made of inert, flavorless material. It
is critical that the tube have the largest practical internal diameter and the
shortest practical length, because as the ratio of internal diameter to length
increases incrementally, frictional forces increase exponentially, causing much
of the heating efficiency to be lost.
*How
this vaporizer works: electronically*
As previously mentioned, electric current passes
through the coiled heater wire lying in ceramic passages in a round ceramic
heater core, causing the core to heat up. Another of the other electronic
goodies that works hard to help this vaporizer do its job is the electrical inlet
on the back of the machine. This contains an electrical filter to protect the controller
from radio frequency noise and voltage spikes, which could affect accuracy or even
destroy components within the controller, rendering the vaporizer useless. The
fuse in the electrical inlet will instantly blow at the first sign of a short
or voltage surge. This combination of safety devices is what protects all
computers plugged into the dirty power that the electric grid provides. Another
feature ensuring the safety of the vaporizer’s electronic equipment—and potentially
your house as well—is a thermal protection device, which will cut power to the
heater alone, leaving the fan on in the event that temperatures rise above 125
degrees Fahrenheit inside the enclosure. If this device overheats as a result of
a fan failure, fire, or just innocent use while basking in the sun,
you will notice the temperature slowly, and then rapidly,
decreasing as the heating element cools down. It may seem as though something
is broken, but the safety device will reset after 15-20 minutes, once the unit cools
below 90 degrees or so. This safety feature may be particularly problematic for
people in Arizona attempting to use the machine outdoors during the summer.
*Just something to think about*
The cooling fan is the last piece of critical equipment
that you should be familiar with; it needs to be examined about once a month for
rampant dust bunnies, hair, and dirt, which should be regularly cleaned to prevent
clogging the inlet or any of the vaporizer’s other air vents. VCR or computer
cleaner spray can be used to remove dust, and beyond that, an air compressor can
be used to carefully blow dirt out in the case of severe dust infestation.
*Benefits to you*
I’m sure you are aware of the many health benefits of
vaporizing as opposed to smoking; these include the absence of carbon monoxide,
tar, creosote, and other carcinogens, as well as the benefits to those around
you, who are not exposed to second-hand smoke, as a result of your choice to use
a vaporizer.
Using a vaporizer also means that you may leave seeds and
stem material in your vaporizing mixture, since these things won’t vaporize or otherwise
influence the quality of the vapor you create. Yet another advantage is the fact that you can effectively
assay the quality of any material you may choose to vaporize. If there is no volatile constituent to
the material in the first place, then you will not notice any vapor when the
material is heated; it’s as simple as that.
*Unpacking and setting up your new
vaporizer*
After you get your vaporizer home, be sure that you have
received these five items in your new vaporizer kit: the vaporizer itself,
power cord, hose, bowl, and the mouthpiece. If any of these parts are missing or broken,
please notify your retailer immediately.
“Plug in, turn on, tune
out.” Now for the fun part—the assembly and use of your new vaporizer:
1.) Unfurl
the power cord, plug it in to the back of the unit, and then plug the other
end into the wall.
2.) Next, you will want to turn the vaporizer on and
check the temperature. To do this, simply turn the power switch to the “ON” position
and observe that the display is reading whatever temperature the unit was at
when you first turned it on. Within a
few seconds this temperature reading will begin to rise swiftly toward whatever
temperature the machine is set at. To check what the temperature setting
is, simply press the “SEL” button once, and the display will go from
showing the actual temperature to showing the set temperature. Press the button again and
the reading will change back to the current temperature. To
adjust the temperature, you will need to push the “SEL” button once, at
which point you can press the up or down arrows to reach the desired temperature,
and then press “SEL” once more to select that temperature. A few seconds after
you’ve set the temperature, the display will automatically revert back to
showing the current temperature.
3.) Now, all you have to do is assemble the “whip,” which
is made of three parts: the mouthpiece, bowl, and the rubber hose
joining them, as shown below:
Your completed bowl, hose, and mouthpiece
set should resemble the above picture when assembled.
4.) Next,
crumble up a sample of your favorite vaporizing blend the size of a
four-dime stack. I like to crumble with my fingers or just use whole chunks,
rather than using a grinder, so that dust and small particles are kept to
a minimum, while stretching the vaporizing process out a bit longer, as bigger
chunks take longer to extract. For a more powerful, instantaneous experience,
you may want to use a grinder, but as long as the bowl is packed evenly, I
find that large chunks vaporize just fine and probably hold their flavor
longer than finely ground material anyway. The amount you load should
equate to between 1/3 and ½ of a bowl, as pictured below:
5.) If you load too much, a lot will be wasted. If you load
too little, your material may not vaporize satisfactorily. Remember, pressure from
the air traveling through the hose will compact the mass you have loaded, so
don’t compress it at all when you load. Simply hold the bowl end of the whip near
a pre-prepared pile of material and suck on the mouthpiece to pull the material
in.
*How to get the most from your
vaporizer*
The most important thing you can do is to keep your screen
sparkling, by cleaning it everyday—don’t let build-up start, or it will just
attract more residue to the initial deposits. One of the easiest things you can
do to clean the screen is to hold the bowl under the hottest water possible in
your kitchen sink, using a pair of tongs. This will melt the glue-like resins, allowing
all of the particulate to be washed away. New resins will not congeal as easily
on a clean, smooth surface as they will on a dirty one, so the less dirt there
is, the less dirt will deposit. Blockage of the screen is probably the single most
efficient way to lower the performance of your setup.
The need for cleanliness also applies to the hose itself;
the hose is just about the only consumable part on the machine and will, with extensive
use, turn brown, absorb odors (releasing them later), and condense particles
which may also be released later. The only way to fix a dirty, smelly, sticky
hose is to replace it. But ten bucks it is a small price to pay for a big jump
in performance.
Finally, you must also take steps to monitor and remove excess
dust from the inside of the unit itself. Dust builds up and clogs the cooling
fan over time, which can and will cause the overheating protector to shut the
heating element down. The simplest thing you can do is go to an electronics
store and buy an aerosol can of VCR or computer duster to blow away dust, but make
sure that all of the fumes have dissipated before you continue use of your
vaporizer.
We hope this hints and tips will help you make the most
of your new vaporizer. Enjoy!
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